Home Fabric Terminology

 





Thanks to Wazoodle for allowing us to use this information.

Knits are fabrics that are constructed by knitting yarns together.  There are many types of knits on the market, and to make things more complicated, retailers have created additional names to further characterize basic knits by either weights, content or finish. 

For the most part, there are 2 types of knits -- doubleknits interlock and ribknit, and single knits -- jerseys and fleeces. 

Identifying the type of Knit.

If you can't tell the difference, don't feel bad -- many clerks in fabric stores can't tell the difference either!  The best way to familiarize yourself is to look in your closet.  An expensive knit top ($20 or more) will probably be interlock, everyday tees will probably be jersey, and girls leggings or mens/boys fitted briefs will be rib knit.

The face looks more or less the same on all 3 fabrics -- they all have have small vertical ribs.  Go to the back of the fabric and and gently pull the across the stretch.  Interlock will look more or less the same on the face and back,  jersey has a wavy perl pattern that runs perpendicular to the face rib.   If you're still not sure, cut a piece from selvedge to selvedge, if it's jersey the cut edge will curl on itself, interlock and rib will lay flat.

Side Interlock Rib knit Jersey
Face
Back

 

  Jersey Interlock RibKnit
Softness Soft Softest Soft
Durability Excellent Good Good
Drape Good Best Good
Uses Everyday Tees, shorts, dresses, lining, sleepwear Elegant Tees, shorts, dresses, lining, sleepwear Tight tees, skirts,  dresses, leggings, underwear, collars and cuffs
Stability Unstable, curls when cut, can  run (like nylon stockings) from cut edges. Stable, cut ends will lay flat, will not run. Stable, cut ends will lay flat, will not run.
Pros Durable, less pilling, easy washing Soft, elegant drape Soft, elegant drape
Cons Not as soft as interlock, not as warm.

Seams curl, before and after sewing, C/L blends especially tricky.

Requires more care in laundering (to keep pilling down) Ribknits with no lycra may stretch out over time.

Requires more care in laundering (to keep pilling down)
Flannels are woven fabrics, usually made from 100% cotton.  They are used for sleepwear, bedding, jacket linings and occasionally as outers for jackets.

Flannels may be napped on one side, or both.  There are several types of flannels:

Diaper Flannel

This is a tight weave flannel that is made 27" wide specifically for economies in diaper making.  It is the same as any double-napped 42-45" flannel. It is more or less obsolete today since the cost of standard width goods (42-45") are so affordable.

Double Napped Flannel, Super Flannel

Flannel that is heavily napped on both sides.  This is available in a wide range of solid colors, and not usually available in prints as the prints look very fuzzy on this type of flannel.

PUL - Polyurethane Laminate

"pee-u-l" is a phrase coined by diaper makers.   It refers to any fabric that has a polyurethane laminated to a base fabric.

MICRO FLEECE is any polar fleece made with microfiber yarns.  

Weight Conversions

Trade name g/yd oz/yd
100 250-300 7.5-9
200 350-400 10-13.5
300 400-500 14-18

 

Elastics  

Swimsuit or Swimwear Elastic This is a cotton/rubber or cotton/lycra woven elastic that is soft and durable. It will break down in when subject to chlorine (swimming pools, laundry bleach).  This has all but been replaced by polyurethane elastic. 

Fold-Over Elastic (FOE) Use it in place of bias tape around the edges of arm and leg openings.


Bird's Eye - A fabric woven with a pattern of small diamonds.

Burley Knit Terry, is not a type of fabric.  Retailers serving the home diapering market use this term to spice up the description of 3-end French terry knit in 16oz and higher weights.  

Fleece - (also called Jogging fleece, or sweatshirt fleece.)  This is a knit fabric, usually in cotton or poly cotton that has napped terry loops on one or both sides.  There are several variations that and finish types for fleeces. 

French terry, French Fleece - A circular knit fabric with a looped pile back and smooth face. This constructs like jogging fleece.

Interlock - a type of cut and sew knit fabric that is characterized by the interconnecting of the knit stitches.

Jacquard - Elaborate woven or knitted pattern. The system for producing these fabrics was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in France in 1801. Some jacquard fabrics have specific names (e.g., brocade, damask and tapestry).

Jersey - A generic term for a plain knit fabric without a distinct rib. Originally made of wool, jersey fabric was first manufactured on the island of Jersey.

Lycra - DuPont's registered trademark for its brand of elastic fiber.  Same type of fiber as Spandex.

Matte jersey - A dull, flat knit fabric made of fine crepe yarns.  Most popular in travel and permanent press or easy care dresses, slacks and skirts.

Microfibre - Generic term for any synthetic fiber finer than silk. Fabrics made with microfibres are soft, lightweight, breathable and durable. 

Polar Fleece - A generic name for polyester spun filament fleeces.  Most polar fleeces are finished with a velour good side and a fleeced inside. These fabrics are popular for sleep and outerwear.  Content is usually polyester and often contain recycled fibers.<

Poplin - A durable, plain weave fabric similar to broadcloth but with a heavier rib and heavier weight. Made of silk, cotton, synthetic fibers, wool or blends.

Ripstop - A fabric woven with a double thread at regular intervals so that small tears do not spread.

Sherpa, describes a type of surface texture used as a finish on knit terry. The term "Sherpa" comes from the the pebbled chunky finish found on traditional woven wool and sheared sheepskin fleeces that have been used for centuries my Tibetan Sherpas.  Sherpa is often misused by specialty retailers to describe thick weight jogging fleece and lightly napped french terry textiles.   This is particularly common in retailers serving the diaper market who often mix up finishes and local colloquial names for fabrics to spice up their fabric descriptions. ( and terms like Nantuckut, Burley Knit Terry etc.)

Terry - A fabric with loop pile on one or both sides. .

Twill - A fabric that shows a distinct diagonal wale on the face (e.g., denim, gabardine, tricotine). Can be knit, but is typically woven.

Velour - Soft plush fabric with a close, dense pile.

Wicking -  refers to a fabric's tendency to disburse moisture rather than absorbing it.

Velvet - A short, closely woven cut pile fabric with a rich, soft texture.